Feeding

Management of the hens in the spring and summertime is very similar to that of meat breeds, except that the hens need oyster shell in their diet. The aim of this section is to outline the necessities for maintaining hens through the winter. The most important debate about wintering poultry is the ration that will be fed. Some would have you believe that, in order to be a true natural or organic farmer, you must not give your hens commercial vitamin supplements over the winter. They say that it is better to commission a special order of feed from the local mill. Unfortunately, this is often not economical. So, the natural, but "unnatural", response of some people is to merely feed the home-grown grain and shun those "loathsome" vitamin packs they've heard so much about.

This response is idealistic, but not efficient. I see no difference between vitamin-boosted water, fed with home-grown grains, and the special layer ration that you will pay so much more to purchase. If the enriched water were mixed with the cheap grain (which, of course, it will be) I suspect that it would be nearly identical to the expensive layer ration! So, if you are a "small-time" poultry farmer, I would encourage you to do what they did in the good old days, and feed the birds what you've got around in your neighbourhood, but add some vitamins to the water. It is very important to have high protein levels in the feed for layers (around 20%, I believe), so if your grain does not fulfill this guideline, high-protein commercial concentrates can be purchased to be mixed in with the home-grown grain.

Grit and oyster shell are both necessary in order to maintain egg production. Oyster shell supplies the calcium for the eggs' shells, and the grit does the same job in digestion as our teeth do. When supplies of either oyster shell or grit drop, so drops the rate of production. While we speak of the oyster shell, it is very important to note that when the birds are not receiving enough of the appropriate vitamins, the calcium will not be absorbed into the body. (Another argument for the vitamin supplements.)

The Winter Coop

There are three main factors involved with the insulation of a chicken coop for wintering hens:

1. quality/amount of insulation
2. number of birds per cubic unit of air per bird
3. supplementary heat source(s)

In the "factory" egg barns, the density of chickens per cubic unit of air is very high, because of the vertical "layers of layers", so to speak. If the birds are stacked higher, a farmer can increase the number of birds per unit of air volume. It must be said, as well, that the large commercial farms have gone much too far with the efficient use of space. They, in nearly all climates, do not need significant insulation in their barns, because the birds' body heat, collectively, is sufficient to maintain good temperatures in the barn. In fact, I've heard that most barns still require cooling systems in winter to keep the birds cool.

Though not going to the same extent, small farmers can make use of the vertical integration approach of stacking chickens in the coop, which in theory would allow for more birds in a smaller coop. Instead of using rows upon rows of cages to enact this policy, small farmers may use what could be called vertical architecture which might include perches, ramps, nests, and any other items, as long as they are somehow suspended above the floor. Call it the Jetsons' coop, where all the chicks live in the air!

Floor Housing Method which leaves a great amount of space wasted. (Brown ovals represent chickens.)

Vertical Integration using perches, ramps, shelves, and other structures to maximize the use of the coop, keeping it warmer in winter. The number of birds in this coop is exaggerated to some degree to illustrate the difference between floor housing and vertical integration.

Another good idea for the hen house which I have not yet tried, is to install a false "expanded-metal" or screen floor that is strong enough for me to walk on, yet has large enough holes to enable the dropping of fecal matter through to the real floor, below. Like the vertical architecture mentioned earlier, this false floor would be raised above the floor by one or two feet. If the birds do not walk on their manure and bedding, it will not become compacted, which would make it very easy to remove in the spring. Imagine: the cleaning of the coop as easy as a broom and an open door.

Nests

I have used roll-away nests (see side-view diagram above) for my layers, because they allow the eggs to be removed from the sight of the fiendish chickens that like to peck or eat the eggs. This is one of the areas in which the hens are very quick learners; if they eat an egg once, they'll likely try again - so don't let them start. Collect the eggs regularly and keep the nests in a darkened area to help prevent this behaviour from starting. Roll-away nests, when used correctly, can help eliminate losses of eggs to cannibalism. Some companies claim that the roll-away nests will pay for themselves within one or two years. Maybe so.

Conclusion

Keeping hens through a cold winter is not for everyone. I can't stand it, up here, for example, where 40 degrees (Fahrenheit and Celsius) below is not an occasion at all. This means that it has been a struggle to keep the birds nice and cozy, resulting in low production through the winter. If you have a nicer climate, though, wintering hens may be a very enjoyable experience.